Pipes
Making Noise
The causes may be
loose pipes, water logged air chambers, or water pressure that's too high.
Pipes are usually anchored with pipe
straps every 6 to 8 feet for horizontal runs and 8 to 10 feet for
vertical. If your pipes bang when you turn on the water, you may need to
add straps, cushion the pipes with a rubber blanket, or both. When you
anchor a pipe-especially a plastic one, leave room for expansion and don't
use galvanized straps on copper pipes.
^up^
Frozen Pipes
Here in Las Vegas
we don't have a lot of problems with frozen pipes. However sometimes it
can be helpful just to know what to do. Here are some tips how to prevent
frozen pipes. A faucet that won't yield water is the first sign of frozen
pipes. If a severe cold snap hits, prevent freezing and subsequent
bursting of pipes by following the suggestions below. Even if the pipes do
freeze, you can thaw them before they burst if you act quickly. When
temperatures fall very low, here's how to keep your pipes from freezing:
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Beam a heat
lamp or small heater at exposed pipes
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Keep a trickle
of water running from the faucets.
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Wrap no
insulated pipes with newspapers, heating wires, foam, or self-adhesive
insulating tape.
-
Keep doors ajar
between heated and unheated rooms. ^up^
Faucets
The first step in
fixing a leaking or sluggish faucet is identifying which of the two basic
types of faucets you're dealing with. Compression
faucet, older design with two handles or washerless faucet, more recent design, usually with a single lever or knob that
controls the flow and mix of hot and cold water. These faucets may be one of several
type: disc, valve, ball, or cartridge. Because models vary with the
manufacturer, it's important to get identical replacement parts.
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When you're
taking the faucet apart, douse stubborn connections with penetrating
oil before trying to loosen them with a wrench. Tape-wrap the wrench's
jaws to prevent marring visible parts of the fixture.
-
Before
starting any faucet repair, plug the sink so small parts can't fall
down the drain.
-
Line the sink
with a towel to prevent damage from tools or parts accidentally
dropped.
-
As you
disassemble the faucet, line up the pieces in the order that you
remove them so you can put them back together properly.
-
CAUTION:
Before you work on a faucet, turn off the water at the fixture shutoff
valves or the main shutoff valve and open the faucet to drain the
pipes.
If water leaks
around the handle, tighten the packing nut. If that fails, replace the
packing. If the faucet leaks from the
spout, either a washer is defective or a valve seat is badly corroded.
To find out which side needs work, turn off
the shutoff valves one at a time; the leak will stop when one or the other
is turned off. Take off the handle,
remove the stem, and either replace the washer or replace or recondition
the valve
seat. ^up^
Water
Hammer
This noise
occurs when you turn off the water at a faucet or an appliance quickly.
The water flowing through the pipes slams to a stop, causing a hammering
noise. Here is what to do: check
for loose pipes, faulty air chambers or water pressure that's above 80 psi.
These
lengths of pipe, installed behind fixtures and appliances, hold air that
cushions the shock when flowing water is shut off. They can get filled
with water and lose their effectiveness. To restore
air to the chambers, turn off the water at the main shutoff valve. Open
all the faucets to drain the system. Close the faucets and turn the water
on again. The air chambers should fill with air.
If the water
pressure cause the problem, to lower it, install a pressure-reducing valve ^up^
Tub
Faucets
Tub faucets can be
compression style or washer less. To take apart any style tub faucet, pry
off the cap, unscrew the handle, and remove the escutcheon. In a
compression faucet, you'll see the stem and packing nut. You may need to
use a deep-socket wrench to grip and loosen a recessed packing nut. To
repair a washer less tub faucet, remove the stop tube and draw out the
retainer clip to get at the cartridge.
^up^
Shower
Heads
If your shower
head leaks where it meets the arm, you probably need to replace the
washer. To reach it, loosen the collar, using tape-wrapped rib-joint
pliers. Unscrew the head from the adjusting ring.
Erratic or weak
pressure usually indicates mineral buildup. To restore proper flow, clean
outlet holes with a pin or unscrew a perforated face plate and soak it
overnight in vinegar, then scrub it clean.
^up^
Clogged
Drains
Before trying any
drain-clearing methods on a plugged drain, check that the tub's pop-up
stopper is opening fully and is free of hair and debris. If the stopper
isn't the problem, then the drainpipe is probably clogged. First, try a
plunger or chemical drain cleaner.
If these fail to
do the job, you'll have to clear the trap with a snake.
-
Most tubs have
a P trap in the drain. In some homes, the tub may have a drum trap in
the floor near the tub instead (it will have a removable metal cover
and a rubber gasket).
-
Using a snake
in a tub P trap is much like snaking out a sink trap. If you have a
drum trap, first try snaking it clear through the tub overflow.
-
If that
doesn't work, bailout all the standing water from the tub.
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Then, using an
adjustable-end wrench, unscrew the trap cover slowly.
-
Have rags
ready for any water that wells up.
-
Remove the
cover, bail out and clean the trap.
-
If, after
this, water does not well up, snake toward he tub; if water does well
up, snake toward he main drain.
-
If you can't
reach the clog from the trap, it's probably deeper in he main drain. ^up^
Clogged
Showers
Though it may
difficult to unclog a shower drain with a plunger, it's worth a try. If
that doesn't work, maneuver a snake down the drain opening into the trap.
As a last resort, you can use a garden hose.
-
Attach the
hose to an outdoor faucet or to an indoor faucet with a threaded
adapter.
-
Push the hose
deep into the drain and pack rags into the opening.
-
Turning the
water on in short, hard bursts should open the drain.
CAUTION:
Never leave a hose in any drain: a sudden drop in water pressure could
siphon sewage back into the fresh water supply. ^up^
Toilets,
how it works?
Two assemblies are
concealed under the lid of a toilet tank; a ball cock assembly, which
regulates the filling of he tank, and a flush valve assembly, which
controls the flow of water from the tank to the bowl. When someone presses
the flush handle, the trip lever raises the lift wires (or chain)
connected to the tank stopper. As the stopper goes up, water rushes
through the valve seat into the bowl via the flush passages. The water in
the bowl yields to gravity and is siphoned out the trap.
Once the tank
empties, the stopper drops into the flush valve seat. The float ball trips
the ball cock assembly to let a new supply of water into the tank through
the tank fill tube. As the tank water level rises, the float ball rises
until it gets high enough to shut off the flow of water. If the water
fails to shut off, the overflow tube carries water down into the bowl to
prevent an
overflow. ^up^
Leaking
Pipes
A higher than
normal water bill might be your first indication of a leaking pipe. Or you
might hear the sound of running water even when all your fixtures are
turned off. When you suspect a leak, check the fixtures first to make sure
all the faucets are tightly closed. Then go to the water meter, if you
have one. If the dial is moving, you're losing water somewhere in the
system
Tips to locate a
leak:
-
The sound of
running water helps. If you hear it, follow it to its source. You can
buy a listening device that amplifies sounds when it's held up to a
pipe.
-
If water is
staining the ceiling or dripping down, the leak is probably directly
above.
-
Occasionally,
water may travel along a joist and then stain or drip at a point some
distance from the leak.
-
If water
stains a wall, it means there's a leak in a section of pipe.
-
Any wall stain
is likely to be below the actual location of the leak and you'll
probably need to remove part of the wall to find it.
-
Without the
sound of running water and without drips or stains as evidence, leaks
are more difficult to find. Using a flashlight, check all the pipes in
the basement or in the crawl space.
If the leak is
major, turn off the water immediately, either at the fixture shutoff valve
or the main shutoff valve. You'll probably have to replace the leaky
section of pipe. If your experience working with pipes is limited, you'll
probably want to call in a plumber to do the job. If the leak is small,
the ultimate solution is to replace the pipe, but there are temporary
solutions until you have time for the replacement job. These methods work
for small leaks only.
-
Clamps should
stop most leaks for several months if they're used with a solid rubber
blanket. It's a good idea to buy a sheet of rubber, as well as some
clamps sized to fit your pipes at a hardware store and keep them on
hand just for this purpose.
-
A sleeve clamp
that exactly fits the pipe diameter works best. Wrap a rubber blanket
over the leak, then screw the clamp down over the blanket.
-
An adjustable
hose clamp used with a rubber blanket stops a pinhole leak.
-
If nothing
else is at hand, use a C-clamp, a small block of wood and a rubber
blanket.
-
In a pinch,
try applying epoxy putty around a joint where a clamp won't work. The
pipe must be dry for the putty to adhere. Turn off the water supply to
the leak and leave the water off until the putty hardens completely on
the pipe.
-
If you don't
have a clamp or putty, you can still stop a small leak temporarily by
plugging it with a pencil
point. ^up^
Sink Sprays
Diverters
A kitchen sink
spray has a spray head attached to a hose, which is connected to a
diverter valve in the faucet body. When you squeeze the spray head handle,
the diverter valve reroutes water from the faucet to the spray head hose.
-
If the flow is
sluggish, make sure the hose isn't kinked.
-
Clean the
aerator in the spray nozzle.
-
Continued
sluggishness may indicate diverter valve problems.
-
Clean the
valve or replace it.
-
If the spray
head leaks, remove it from the hose and replace the washer.
-
For a leak at
the faucet end of the hose, tighten the hose coupling.
-
If the hose
itself leaks, it's probably cracked. Replace it ^up^
Drains
A stopped sink
drain isn't just an inconvenience; it can sometimes be an emergency. It's
always best to prevent clogs before they happen. Be alert to the warning
signs of a sluggish drain. It's easier to open a drain that's slowing down
than one that's stopped completely.
-
Run or pour
scalding water down the drain to break up grease buildups.
-
If hot water
doesn't unclog the drain, there could be some object in the drain.
-
To check,
remove and thoroughly clean the sink pop-up stopper or strainer.
-
Determine if
the clog is close to the sink by checking the other drains in your
home. If more than one won't clear, something is stuck in the main
drain.
-
The most
effective way to clear a clog is with a snake.
-
You can try
using a plunger or a chemical drain .
Safety
Tip:
Water
Heater and how it works?
Most problems with water heaters
are announced by noises or by water that's either too hot or not hot enough.
Often you can correct the problem yourself. A possible exception is a water
leak, which may require professional service or tank replacement. Gas leaks call
for immediate help from the utility company.
Whenever someone turns on a hot
water faucet, heated water is drawn from the top of the tank and is replaced by
cold water that is carried to the bottom through the dip tube. When the water
temperature drops, a thermostat activates the heat source (a burner in a gas
model -- two heating elements is an electric.) A gas heater has a flue running
up the center and out the top to vent deadly gasses. An electric heater needs no
venting. In both, an anti-corrosion anode attracts corrosion that would
otherwise attack the tank's walls.
Maintenance
for good and safe service
-
Open the drain valve at the
bottom about every 6 months, letting the water run into a bucket until it
looks clear (usually about 5 gallons). This will prevent sediment
accumulation.
-
Annually test the
temperature-pressure relief pressure buildup by lifting or depressing its
handle and draining water from the overflow pipe. If water doesn't drain
out, shut off water to the heater, open a hot water faucet somewhere in the
house, and replace the valve.
Water
heater safety tip
If steam or boiling water ever
comes out of the valve or the hot water faucets, shut the heater off at once. If
you ever hear a rumbling sound, assume the heater is overheating and turn it
off. ^up^
Because
my work is as sound as the Egyptian Pyramids, you can count on it!
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